Wind Under My Arms: On Returning to What Makes You Feel Alive
A story about surfing, freedom, and the courage to suck at something you once loved.
I'm going surfing in Sayulita, and I'm very happy about that. I haven't surfed in fifteen years. I'm gonna suck. I'm gonna suck real good—and that's how one begins again. You suck as best as you can.
Back then, I was deep in medical school in Austria, but something in me needed a different kind of summer. I wanted to learn French, and I also wanted to do a sport regularly. I signed up for language school during the day, and surf classes every afternoon. Every day. It was great—three weeks of that.
I chose surfing because I wanted a sport I'd never done before. It sounded like something I would really enjoy.
Those times in France were times of freedom, in spirit. That was a time when everything felt possible. Freedom felt like wind under my arms. I felt more like a bird. You know, it's that time where life isn't clear yet—so everything feels possible.
I returned to Austria to continue my medical studies. And returning—it felt different. Going back to Austria, no sea, no French? Yes, I always missed it. After finishing my studies, I went on a trip around the world with my friend Lola. Again, there were waves, oceans, diving, surfing. I felt light and free, like I did on that first trip.
And then, life happened - career, responsibilities... Fifteen years passed without me even realizing how far I'd drifted from that feeling.
But now I'm going surfing in Sayulita. And I'm very happy about that.
What's something you loved that you've drifted away from? What would it feel like to return to it, even if you'd "suck" at first?